12/16/2023 0 Comments Image of parts of a telescope![]() ![]() I bought a Moonlite Crayford 2" dual speed with 1.5" travel. It has a 1.83" small axis and is rated 1/18 wave peak to valley. It would require a really flat reference which is hard to achieve. Mine is a hand built 8" diameter with a 4.75 focal ratio. I will only list here the ones I used to build mine. You can use a lot of various materials to build a telescope. Lastly, I designed my mount using the Stellafane website. I borrowed the 16 sided tube idea from him.Īnother source of inspiration is this walnut octagonal scope from which I borrowed the tube rings design, the baffles and primary mirror cell.įor the secondary mirror holder, I used Gary Seronik's curved vane design. They are a mix between a scientific tool and a piece of art. I really liked the hexagonal design of his 10.5 in F2.7.Īs I started to look for hexagonal telescopes, I found Normand Fullum's instruments. He is a master mirror builder and has produced awesome rich field telescopes. One of the websites I was using during the mirror construction is Mel Bartels website. Like I said, once you've chosen the optical path configuration, the rest is entirely up to you. You can load the file attached to view my own configuration. Luckily, there is a convenient website that lets you play with these criteria and optimize your design: Newt for the Web. For photography, you will need a precise mount to cancel the earth rotation, a 2" focuser and an oversized elliptical to prevent vignetting on the images. For visual, a Dobson mount (alt-azimutal) and a small elliptical are all you need. The last thing you need to decide is whether you want to use this telescope for visual observation or astrophotography. However, if you chose a taller focuser, this distance will be longer and the elliptical will need to be larger, thus reducing the amount of light being reflected on the primary mirror. If you chose a low profile focuser, this distance will be minimal and you will need a smaller mirror. The distance between this mirror and your eye will depend on the size of your focuser. That's why we will use a secondary mirror (also called elliptical) oriented at 45 degree, reflecting the light to the side. ![]() However, you can't put your head in front of the mirror, that would block the light coming from the stars. This is the distance from the mirror where a sharp image is produced. To get the focal, multiply the diameter by the focal ratio (often called F/D): If you bought the primary mirror, it will probably come with some info such as the diameter and the focal ratio. In my case, it was easy to obtain the curvature of my mirror since I made it myself. Decide if the instrument will be used for visual observation or astrophotography.The curvature of your primary mirror dictates the length of the tube.There are only a few rules to keep in mind: The good thing about telescopes is that the design is almost entirely up to you. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |